May 05, 2011

East of the Outer Drive

East of the Outer Drive
Besides Belmont Harbor 
there were/are other points of interest along the Outer Drive

poster - Studio Chris
The Mason Rock
 According to this 1901 article there was this mysterious meteor-sized boulder that sat on Parker R Mason's property along the existing lake shore. As far as anyone can remember - 40 odd years, no one can remember how the rock got there and the reason for it there; but there is was sitting as if just placed their on the shoreline. Parker Mason was reported to be a odd man who apparently keep to himself and love to tinker with objects in his laboratory. He owned an illicit distillery company according to a 1876 Chicago Daily News article while owning large tracts of land in Lake View. By 1899, according to an article, he is regarded as one of the pioneer distilleries in Chicago - our very own.

 Parker R. Mason
Chicago Daily News Feb 8,1899
Javis Bird Sanctuary 
main entrance to the sanctuary
photo - Max Herman TimeOut Chicago
photo - Geoff Williamson, Sierra Club Field Trip 
with more photos of that particular 2011 trip
unlabeled aerial view vs labeled view
Jarvis Bird Sanctuary and its mission
is located at the northern tip of Belmont Harbor
In the early 1920’s a patch of land just east and north of Belmont Yacht Harbor was still a marshy usable section of land.  A sanctuary for wildlife was created during the Lincoln Park (the park) extension of the early 20th century.
According to Wikipedia, Bill Jarvis Migratory Bird Sanctuary, formerly Lincoln Park Addison Migratory Bird Sanctuary. First landscaped and constructed with limited public access in the 1920’s, under the leadership of the Chicago Academy of Sciences, its spring is supplied with city water to mimic a natural lake marsh environment, with attendant forest and meadow environments. Most of its 7-acre (2.8 ha) area is entirely fenced around to preserve the habitat from human encroachment. Instead, a nature trail and a viewing platform are at its surrounding perimeter. During the 1940’s, its Park District caretakers lost funding and the site was padlocked. In 1968, the entire site was almost bulldozed for golf course development but its Lake View neighbors, including Bill Jarvis, led a successful campaign to save and restore it. Today it hosts more than 150 species of birds, including six species of herons, like the black crowned night heron; wood ducks; woodcock; hawks; yellow-billed cuckoos; hummingbirds; thrushes; vireos; 34 species of warblers; and 18 native species of sparrows. In addition, small mammals such as rabbit, opossum, raccoon, and occasionally fox and coyote make their home there. View it with this YouTube link.
Volunteers at work 
Volunteers working the field in 2010
"With assistance from a lovely tree.
my hands were on two fallen branches
that were stuck in thick, swampy mud."
Kelly Weime photo as him as an adventurous volunteer
Read about the volunteer efforts in 2014 via DNAinfo
Bill Jarvis Migratory Bird Sanctuary steward 
photo - DNAinfo
Charlotte Newfeld poses inside the sanctuary's heated shelter. Volunteers work at the shelter two times a month every month of the year. The sanctuary dates to 1923, when the North Parks Commission set aside 5-1/2 acres of recent landfill. Due to that landfill Belmont Yacht Harbor was open to the public in 1913. After reading this post read more about the harbor in another post called Belmont Yacht Harbor Moments as well as the Chicago Tribune coverage of it in press photos and lastly when the harbor was used during the sailboat races to Mackinac Island.
Depiction - Oil by Timothy Rees
The official recognition of this patch of land was not mandated until 1968 when the Chicago Park District established jurisdiction. While the CPD established ownership the sanctuary upkeep was to be manage by ecological friendly citizens of the area under the stewardship of the Lake View Citizens Council - an umbrella organization of the neighborhood civic associations in this area.  
As of 2001 the sanctuary was expanded to include flora and fauna collection (the word 'flora' can include flowers, bushes, trees and other plants and fauna includes birds, insects, arthropods, reptiles, amphibians and mammals). An observation platform is located on the lakeside and outside the enclosed fencing. The area was named after an advert bird-watcher and sanctuary activist Bill Jarvis.
photo - Chicago Park District
Sierra Club @ Javis observation deck - 2011
In 2009 the patrons of the sanctuary 'crossed hairs' with the city of Chicago and the Chicago 2116 Olympic Committee.  The Committee was planning to install a massive tennis center next to the sanctuary.  After several heated debates between residents and the city officials it was finally decided that the center would be built. Luckily, the peacefulness of the sanctuary was secured by the failed attempt by the city's Olympic Committee for permission to have the Olympics located here that following year. 
The Maintenance - Fall
typical Fall prep for Winter
photo - their web site 
The Maintenance - Winter
Winter volunteer remove non-indigenous tree
photo - DNAinfo
The Maintenance - Spring
 photo - their website
 photo - their website
an installation of a bird house
Sierra Club Birding and Nature Walk 2012
at this sanctuary
Solitary Sandpiper by KristinChicago on Flickr

Bring someone who can act as a guide for your group
Sierra Club @ Javis - photo 2011

According the the sanctuary's management if you plan to volunteer and help maintain the area "come prepared for clearing brush and planting seeds, and might just catch a glimpse of  birds like chickadees, juncos and coopers hawks. Binoculars and instruction in how to use them will be available during break times". Explore the photography of this sanctuary via Flickr  ... well worth it!
 There are other official sites like Javis in the city
a 'Carolina Wren' - DNAinfo
Read this article from DNAinfo about all the local location sightings when traveling south of the winter months.
2016 photo - Judith Geisenheimer Saistone 
via Picture of Chicago-Facebook
Ceremony preparing for its travel to the lakefront - 1929
Dedication of Kwanusila Totem Pole - 1929

Dedication of Kwanusila (The Thunderbird) - 1929
-photo from Calumet 412 Collection 

How many countless runners have run by it; made a momentary gaze at it while thoughtless running beyond it?

Postcard front and back 1930 postmark
CowCard via Max Rigot Selling Company
The World's Columbian Exposition was in 1893 and Century of Progress Exposition was 1933. The card reads Chicago World's Fair 1933 and the postmark reads 1930 on both sides. Interesting collectors item. 
The Background Story
Kwakiutl Totem Pole begins with the tradition of the Kwakiutl community in western British Columbia, Canada.  The Kwakiutl tribe were renowned for their woodcarving skills, including not only totem poles, but also elaborately carved and painted masks. Somehow James L. Kraft, the founder of Kraft Inc.(Chicago based company) acquired a totem pole and later donated it to Chicago Park District in 1929. The pole was originally 40 feet tall and carved from a single cedar logIn 1985 the original totem pole was returned to Canada and sits in the Museum of Anthropology at the University of British Columbia in Vancouver.
The below Chicago Tribune articles below tell a story of a donation to Chicago Park District that would later become an epicenter of Native American protest at the site and along the Belmont Harbor. 
A Donation 1929
Vandalism in 1972
 Note: View my posts on Belmont Yacht Harbor Moments and Before Major Developments about the background concerning the first occupants of the area.
The Last Day for the Original
(click on article to enlarge)
'In 1958 the arm positions of the pole's human figure were changed because rotting had occurred in the arm sockets; one hand was moved so that it covered the figure's eyes. (A visitor observed that the figure no longer had to watch the spectacle of rush hour traffic which passed before it.) In 1966 the pole was drastically renovated: the sea monster at the base, the Thunderbird at the top, and the human figure were re-carved by skilled Kraft workers. Their work appears to be a faithful attempt at restoration, but the painted symbols were inaccurately reproduced. The significance of features in the original painting, which had been more elaborate, could never have been appreciated by a restorer unacquainted with Northwest Coast art. A Kraft supervisor of the restoration has suggested that Kraft workers trying to copy the intricate symbols perhaps didn't realize how important it was to duplicate features with great accuracy. The original painted symbols on the pole have almost totally disappeared.'
The Replacement
Its replica like the original stands today still in the same place of the original along Lake Shore Drive north of the Belmont Harbor in front of the Jarvis Bird Sanctuary (post on this).
Note: View the post about the bird sanctuary within this blog for information on it. And check out this YouTube video on the other totem poles of North America.
The Renovation of the Replica 2017
photo by James Mick Ryan
The Alarm
along the bike trail
Ebay unknown date

It would appear that the monument was moved from the main park space to north of Diversey Harbor and east of LSD. I am guessing this move was due to reconfiguration of the park 
and expansion of LSD 1937-1941
5 above images - Online Archive of California
Art Institute of Chicago, Ryerson & Burnham Archives: Archival Image Collection - SAIC Libraries 
zoomed image below

“The Alarm" is among the drive's lesser-known monuments and worth a closer look. This tribute to members of the Ottawa tribe depicts a Native-American family with their dog who appear to be on alert for possible danger. The monument, built in 1884 by sculptor John J. Boyle, stands on a stretch of park on the Lake Michigan side of Lake Shore Drive parallel with Wellington Avenue. The statue was commissioned by fur trader Martin Ryerson, who worked with the Ottawa tribe. The base has granite tablets etched with Native-American scenes and a plaque with a dedication by Ryerson that reads: "To the Ottawa Nation of Indians, my early friends."
located just north of Diversey Harbor
and just south of Diversey Parkway
The statue was commissioned by fur trader Martin Ryerson, who worked with the Ottawa tribe. 
The base has granite tablets etched with Native-American scenes and a plaque with a dedication by Ryerson that reads: "To the Ottawa Nation of Indians, my early friends."
along the bike trail
Art Institute of Chicago, Ryerson & Burnham Archives: Archival Image Collection - SAIC libraries.
 Chuckman Collection - 1911
 A 1894 article that record the process of acceptance 
- edited into 5 parts for clarity 
Judge Tree's Letter to Lincoln Park Board of Commissioners
Judge Tree purchased the statue for the LPBC 

 Letter of Acceptance from the president of 
Lincoln Park Board Commissioners

An editorial from the writer of this article 

The sculptors speech 

Its locations prior to this 1918 Chicago Daily Tribune mention

image - Ebay
photos - Tony Minard via Pictures of Chicago-Facebook
The Spirit of the American Doughboy
but removed to unknown location or destroyed
image - Online Archive of California
Honoring men and women who served in World War I. Erected in 1927 and removed by 1946. It was located along Lake Shore Drive parallel to Briar Place. 
Also, read about all the official monuments in Chicago
The Real Estate East of the Outer Drive 
within Lake View
In 1925 the city began to develop the North-Lake Shore Drive from Diversey Parkway to Montrose Avenue with real estate that included Waveland Park space. 
 Sign reads 'Keep off the Grass'
Waveland Clock Tower unknown date
photo - James D. via Foursquare
Let's Golf! 1926
page 2
The Ice Rink 1941
later that year 1941
 (click on article to enlarge)

page 2
Sydney R. Marovitz Field House and Golf Course
(still referred to as Waveland Golf Course by locals)
photo Flickr contributor Duane Rapp
photo - Yo Chicago
Sydney R. Marovitz Golf Course - Karen Thall 
to be forever known as Waveland Golf Course 
along with a  Flickr view of the field house in 1988
The running path known by locals along the lakefront
- view from entrance
The path had issues before 2012
2015 photo - Sydney Marovitz Golf Course-Facebook
2010 photo 
- Patrick Gainer, Living History of Illinois and Chicago
The Trail Along the Lakefront 
Let's begin at Diversey Harbor
Somewhere along the path of the park in the year 2000
University of Illinois-Chicago, City 2000
entrance or exit to our hood's trail
R.Josh via Yelp 2015
endless path along the shore
R.Josh via Yelp 2015
Kwanusila Totem Pole
R. Josh via Yelp 2015
2016 photo - Scott Cummings
photo - via Yo Chicago
 Heading northeast to Waveland Clock Tower 
R.Josh via Yelp 2015
photo - James S via Yelp

Waveland Clock Tower 
R.Josh via Yelp 2015
Carina Saways via Pictures of Chicago-Facebook 
Tony Minard via Pictures of Chicago-Facebook
Clock Tower Cafe R.Josh via Yelp 2015
View more of R. Josh photos along the entire path via Yelp!
2016 photo - Manny Manotas Velez 
via Pictures of Chicago-Facebook
photo via Growing up in Chicago-Facebook
the former bridle path east of building
photo - Wikipedia
The Lincoln Park Bridle Path
"It was extremely popular in the 40's and 50's. Many of Chicago's elite boarded their horses there and there were many horse shows held there each year. There was an entry into the park and every Sunday morning there would be breakfast rides by riders who would be in formal dress as they trotted around the bridle path."
- nancybc via Forgotten Chicago
The runners path through the park were originally routes for equestrians either owners of a horse or rented one. By the end of the 20th century most of the paths had been paved over for the bike rider or runner so to reduce erosion and the number puddles. There were several horse stables along Lincoln Park - the park. Equestrians academies & stables dotted the lakefront landscape supported by shops in Lake View area that supplied equipment for the sport - shops were located on the 4425 N Broadway Avenue and the other on 4606 N Sheridan Road both called The Swiss Shop. 

The construction of yacht harbors were important attractions for the equestrians much like roadhouses were in the 19th century when traveling in rural areas of Chicago or hotels near airports. Equestrians would stop at a clubhouse in the harbor area to rest or chat - maybe enjoy a meal or drink either for their horse or for themselves. 
An association was established in 1908 in Chicago so to create the 'rules of the road',the proper use of the sport. Below are selected pages from their 1921 handbook. 
 page 1
the value of the sport for the rider
the value of the sport for the horse
for your health - p. 19
 Map of Lincoln Park District 1921 - p.61
Schools & Academies - insert
Lascot Riding School, 75 E. Walton Place
Telephone Superior 7160 
First Cavalry Riding Academy, 1330 N Clark Street
Telephone Superior 335 
Parkway Riding Academy, 2153 N Clark Street
Telephone Diversey 6140
Pemberton Sales Stables (No horses for hire)
No location/telephone mentioned 
North Shore Riding Academy, 2822 N Clark Street
Telephone Lakeview 8040 
Lincoln Riding Academy, 3008 N Clark Street
Telephone Wellington 4060 
Edgewater Riding Academy on Foster Avenue
Telephone Edgewater 1646 
Catalpa Riding Club (private), 1124 Catalpa Street
No telephone mentioned (No horses for hire) 
Birchwood Country Club, Devon Avenue
No telephone mentioned (No horses for hire) 
North Shore Polo Club, Lincoln & Peterson Avenue
No telephone mentioned 
plans for a clubhouse in Belmont Harbor 
- harbor was opened to the public in 1913
an advertisement within the booklet for Parkway p. 89
supply stores p.18
 photo & text - murphman via Forgotten Chicago 2013
"Growing up in Lake View in the seventies, I recall a young woman who rode a horse around the neighborhood - was a strange sight. She was very friendly and allowed us kids to pet the horse. Also I seem to remember she rode bareback. Doubt if you would see that today!"
Horses once roamed the lakefront from at least 22 stables from Hyde Park to Foster Avenue. The nearest to the neighborhood of Lake View was the 'New Pathway Stables' that was apparently established in the 1890's and closed in 1967 due to changing population attitude toward horseback riding. Apparently, the newer residents did not have the means to own or ride a horse and had sanitation concerns in a dense urban area.  According to Bob Hughes of the Chicago Tribune "the Chicago Park District insisted that commercial activities were not allowed in the parks and emphasized that if a nonprofit stable were to be approved, it would have to meet 'high sanitary and structural standards'. Just how high those standards would be was not specified, but it seemed likely that even a good jumping horse might find them formidable."
photo - Chicago Tribune
New Parkway Riding Stables, pictured here at 2153 N Clark Street, furnished horses for rides in the park and taught classes, such as this one on April 12, 1966. This stable had been in business since the 1890's and still sent out some 600 riders every weekend to Lincoln Park in 1966. New Parkway was the last publicly used a city-operated stable. It closed in October, 1967.- Chicago Tribune caption to the photo above
 along Grant's Monument
along Lake View Avenue 
somewhere in Lincoln Park
 somewhere along the Lincoln Park trail
beyond the Waveland Golf Course
The Beginning to the End 1953
Tragedy Hits 1954

Stables vs Citizen Groups 1954
page 2 
No Support - Time to Leave 1966 
The Last North Side Stable Closes 1967
The Chicagoan 
Testimony via 'Forgotten Chicago' 2011
I rode at the New Parkway Stables in '52 at Webster and Clark. Owner was Johnny Klein and instructors were Ivan Parks and Peggy Drummond who was also Chicago school teacher. I originally began at Christensen stables south of Clark and North avenue in a former auto dealership building. It was the west side of the street down from the Red Star Inn. Beginners learned in the inside ring and advanced folks went into the huge larger inside arena in the area where there once had been cars and carriages. The great, now deceased, famous Saddlebred trainer, Tommy Moore worked there as a teen and everyone at that time marveled at his talent. ‘Ambassador Stables’ was east of this barn and the entrance was off an alley; very small barn with few riders most of whom came from the affluent Gold Coast area. The fourth barn was ‘Plush’ just west of New Parkway off of Grant Place. Nice barn, big ring but long walk to the entrance of the zoo which got us to the bridle path along the Lincoln Park [lagoon]. What a thrill to attract all that attention from zoo visitors as many as 40 of us would walk thru the zoo. Sunday breakfast rides meal was taken at the Black something restaurant at Clark and Diversey; most of the riders were older women. Fifty-four horses in straight stalls were in the basement of the Parkway. On the second floor were the private horses owned by people from the Stewart Coffee family and others in box stalls. There was a fire in the basement of Parkway around '55 or so and only one of the 52 survived...the oldest school horse they had simply dipped his nose deep into his food trough and survived. They had to pull all the horses out of the basement through the windows and ramp and they were piled up in the alley. 
MollyGo via Forgotten Chicago
Images of that Path in 2012
photos - Lake View Patch 

Post Notes
View my post about Belmont Harbor and its' sister post about the harbor by the Chicago Tribune.

Important Note:
These posts are exclusively used for educational purposes. I do not wish to gain monetary profit from this blog nor should anyone else without permission for the original source - thanks!

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